Fall/Winter 2012, menswear.

Posted on 12/06/2012 by Mimi Berlin Amsterdam

Since Summer won’t break through in The Netherlands it’s time to focus on Fall 2012. In particular the menswear collections.
Our favorite are the boys from Watanabe, or rather the clothing they wear. (The cutest guy is the Woolrich model, for sure! *_*.) For Summer 2012 Watanabe already promised us men in worker(manual labor)clothes. Actually, in the Netherlands they can’t be found, but that’s probably because we don’t have Summer as such in this country. Okay, enough chit-chat about the weather: This, Fall 2013, season more designers visualize manual-labor-worker-looks in some sort of form.

Manual-work-ism

Pockets at Watanabe and at Woolrich Woolen Mills.

Grey tweed with contrasting brown, Watanabe and at Carven.

More Watanabe because it’s so perfect.

Watanabe and Walter van Beirendonck

Jil Sander (garage) and Walter van Beirendonck.

Worker-Preppy-ism

Again, pockets, at Marni and at Carven
Michelin-man-ism

Montcler Gamme Bleu and Carven

Fragile at Maison Margiela and Calvin Klein.

The dandies come along for this season as well. In different forms. The plain ones in the immaculate suit (no photo’s, you know the drill, you’ll find out about the silhouette, we know you can!) The dandy at Comme des Garcons, a sloane rebel. And we have the dandy from the non-western cultures.

Dandy-ism

At Kenzo and Comme des Garcons

Comme des Garcons

Dandy-Tribal-ism

Walter van Beirendonck

Damir Doma. With stars at Givenchy.

A little sidestep: No Dandies, nor tribal but with stars (and nose-ring) at Givenchy and Vivienne Westwood.

Spotlights at Bottega Veneta and Sapeurs at Walter van Beirendonck.

We’re sure there are many more, retro or other usual suspected trends. For us, these were the most interesting. As they should be for you!

xoxo Mimi.

All photo are taken from www.style.com

Fashionfix summer 2012 Menshows: Ties ‘n Stripes

Posted on 16/05/2012 by Mimi Berlin Amsterdam

The sixties type of tie.

Colour coordinated at Dolce & Gabanna and at Lanvin

Reduced to a stripe at Iceberg. Graphic division at Marni.

Tip: If you don’t own a narrow tie yet, go and buy one today. Take your girl with you and visit your local secondhand (vintage) shop. As always, we’re curious to see what you came home with! Please mail us your ties! Thanks.

*All runway photo’s from style.com. All backstage photo’s by Sonny VandeVelde via ASVOF*

Fashionfix S2012 RTW Womenswear: fabrics

Posted on 14/10/2011 by Mimi Berlin Amsterdam

Plissée

Allover at Sonia Rykiel and Burberry Prorsum.

Inserted at Antonio Marras and Chloé.

Shiny at Prada, transparent at Sacai.

Blocking at Prada and Aquilano.Rimondi.

Allover printed and bias at Rue du Mail. Bi-coloured at Chloé.

Inspired by pliseé at Martin Grant and Versus.

Metallics

Short ‘n Sassy at Felder Felder and Sass&Bide.

Skirts: Jil Sander Navy, Acne.

Dresses: Gaultier, Sportmax.

Knitwear from Sportmax. Theyskens Theory.

Statements at Manish Arora and Givenchy.

Details at a Détacher and at Mugler.

Brocade

In warm colours, Alexandre Herchovitch and Prada

Transparancy

As ice at Sarah Wauchob and Gabriela Colangelo.

Layered skirts at Marc Jacobs and Marni.

Showing some leg at Gabriela Colangelo and Commuun.

Abundance at Theyskens Theory and Rochas.
Lace

‘Cotton-fresh’ at Prada and Valentino

Plain and layered at Miu Miu and Junya Watanabe.

Comme des Garçonnes. Under the looking glass at Louis Vuitton.

Multicolored at Marni.Contrast layering at Preen.
*All photo’s from Style.com

Fashionfix S2012 RTW Womenswear: The usual suspects.

Posted on 12/10/2011 by Mimi Berlin Amsterdam

Flowers

Iceberg and Antonio Marras.

Peter Som and Peter Pilotto.

Manish Arora and Blumarine.

ADAM and Piazza Siemione.

Anna Sui and Moschino.
Note: All of he above are Jumpsuits or 2 piece pantsuits.All kinds of flowers are game.

Multicolored lace: Junya Watanabe and Peter Pilotto.

Bold Sixties: Marni and Rochas.

Heavy embellishment: Dolce and Gabanna and Louis Vuitton.

(Bee) Stripes

Burberry Prorsum and Fendi

Marni and Manish Arora

Checks

BB Checks: Peter Jensen and Marc Jacobs.

Transparent allover checks: Y-3 and Jill Sander.
Colourblocking

Barbara Bui. Lightsaber-blocking at Martin Grant.

Diagonal with functional details: Helmut Lang and Donna Karan.

Diagonal: Cacharel and Giorgio Armani.

Bold patching: Barbara Bui and Manish Arora.

Loud and clear: Donna Karan and Balenciaga.

Fashionfix S2012 RTW Womenswear: story 5

Posted on 12/10/2011 by Mimi Berlin Amsterdam

Dolls
All kinds. But let’s start with the paper dolls. Their cut-out clothes with folding tabs are an inspirationfor this season. The ‘paper doll’ garments are ill fitted, contrasting, or out of proportion. Complicated? No way, just have a look.

Creating an optical illusion: 3.1 Philip Lim. Sacai incorporated a petite, knitted sweater.

The tiny top illusion: Sonia Rykiel and Balenciaga.

Stitched-on tops: Comme des Garçonnes and Preen.

Interchangeable ‘paper doll’ clothes at Antonio Marras. Notice: The embellishment is only applied to the front, like it should be!

Marni: The dresses are embellished by hand, in raffia and Swarovski Strass at the front and back. They’re a little bit more chique than your average ‘paper doll’ dress, the workmanship of these garments is so breathtakingly refined! Is this really RTW? Yes it is: BUY (till 11/16)

Blank Canvasses: With visible fold loops at Altzaturra. Abstract meets pictorial at Hussein Chalayan.

Souvenir dolls

Traditional patchwork at Miu Miu. ‘Ill’ fitted patchwork at Peter Jensen.

Folklore: Moschino and Antonio Marras. What do you think?
Are these dolls gifts from Germany, or from Russia…

Mixing traditions: Antonio Marras and Miu Miu.

The keffiyeh: overdyed by AF Vandervorst. Patched by Three as Four.

Bi-colour: Sequins at Marni. Embossed leather at Balmain.

Life sized Dolls

Paper cut-out dresses: Louis Vuitton is Master. His garments have a lot going on at the front and , relatively, nothing at the back! He toys around with proportions on a huge scale. It almost feels like he dressed the models in a saved-up collection of childhood b-day gifts. I guess that’s a definition of retro as well! Ingeniously shaped and meticulously proportioned at Comme des Garçons.

Barbie: Seen as a concept at Viktor and Rolf. Conducted in a rigorous manner, no mistake here about the inspirational source. From stitchings to lashes, top to toe; all magnified. Even the catwalk entrance is a sky high, singing Barbie, wearing a long skirt/ curtain. At Mulberry, Barbie was used as inspiration in a broader perspective. She is formed into a Trashy Chick (X-tina?). The only true remains of Barbie are the pastel colors, the blond hair and the naïve accesoiries as in bows and small dogs. This appearance makes the chique Mulberry Bags ‘n shoes really stand out! They just used her as a styling device! Poor Barbie!

*All photo’s from style.com