Spring 2014 Couture Shows

The Couture shows, 17 in total for Spring 2014, were held in Paris from January 19, 2014 through January 23, 2014. It must be SO much fun to create a couture collection. The models seem to be real life White Barbie Dolls: peplums, drapings, sashes and bows anything goes. The lack of detail or otherwise the enlarged detailing: yards of rich fabric pulled through yet another yard of embellished cloth. Just like one has to do when making tiny Barbie Doll clothes. With that in mind; flashy in-your-face-materials are very important because of the fact that their exclusivity is not to be missed: lace, glass-fibre, brocade, fur, feathers are perfect to start with. The extreme opposite is the next step, as seen at Christian Dior and Viktor & Rolf. They made use of high-tech, ultra flat and paper thin, muted materials to create a very quiet, almost naked (not nude) look. The choice of colors: black, gold, white, pink and pastel, all traditional and catering to the taste of the average women (customer or not). For both colors and fabrics anything shimmering goes; just as long as it’s useful to make the Princess Dreamworld come to life.

At Sciaparelli the Vintage Barbie Doll feeling was enlarged because of the retro fifties outfits and because this show seemed like a fashion-history-lesson in a nutshell. (which also can be done with barbie dolls but that’s an other story). Mr Lagerfeld put emphasis on the waist-line at Chanel. He also created a roller skating barbie doll, including accessories: a little pouch and knee protectors trimmed with silver, cute! The designs of Viktor & Rolf and at Maison Martin Margiela tell a different story than the Princess one: We can imagine they always tried out markers and scissors on their dolls when they were young: Both couture houses hid the faces of the models and used Tattoo-inspired images.

(all catwalk images are from style.com)

What is Haute Couture?  Haute Couture: refers to the creation of exclusive custom-fitted clothing. Haute couture is fashion that is constructed by hand, without the use of machines from start to finish, made from high quality, expensive, often unusual fabric and sewn with extreme attention to detail and finished by the most experienced and capable seamstresses, often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques. A Haute Couture garment is often made for a client, tailored specifically for the wearer’s measurements and body stance.Considering the amount of time, money, and skill that is allotted to each completed piece, Haute Couture garments are also described as having no price tag – in other words, budget is not relevant. Each couture piece is not made to sell. Rather, they were designed and constructed for the runway, much like an art exhibition. In France, the term Haute Couture is protected by law and is defined by the Chambre de commerce et d’industrie de Paris based in Paris, France.

Rupert von Rom Must-See of the Month: Want-See Galliano

Rüpert von Rom‘s Must-See for this month is more a Want-See: Bring Back Galliano !!

This March it has been three years John Galliano was fired as head designer at Christian Dior. I don’t think I need to explain what happened. We have all seen the clip showing his outburst outside a Parisian cafe. It is an understatement to say: what he did wasn’t OK. But he didn’t kill anyone, did he?
I dare to confess: I miss him like a cut off limb. Fashion hasn’t been the same since he was amputated. Less splendour. We are lacking a designer that takes us to an unimaginable dreamy place of refinement, excessive luxury and wit. There is a vacancy for story teller without boundaries, a visionair.

Christian Dior Haute Couture 2007

The John in the Youtube-clip dishing out anti-semitic comments is clearly a troubled man. The man disagreeing with this is a fool. John Galliano was a black-out drinker and a heavy user of drugs. Fortunately Galliano checked himself into a clinic. He came out well and remains a work in progress. Well done!, I say. Let’s applaud a man that came from the gutter, all apologetic and willing to change and improve. I think we need to acknowledge that fact. It is time for forgiveness and reinstate him back on catwalk. Enough is enough.

It is time to dream again. It is time to bring back Galliano!
Yours, Rüpert von Rom.
vogue gallianoJohn Galliano’s Fantasia, a Tim Walker shoot guest edited by John Galliano and starring his long-time friend Kate Moss. Photo By Tim Walker for Vogue UK December 2013 (via Vogue UK)

Dior at the MOCA Shanghai

The MOCA Shanghai has a marvelous exhibition on couturier Dior. The Museum of Contemporary Art of Shanghai shows an overview of the work of the house of Dior from beginning through the collection for winter 2012. Showcased in 9 separate theme rooms such as; J’adore, Pink, Paris, The Look, Versailles, Garden, Artist, Studio and Stars. The rooms are divided by large walls with photo’s portraying the theme. All the photo’s in this exhibition are made by Patrick Demachelier. Florence Müller curated the exhibition. Bonus is on the ground floor where you can find the Dior Studio in which the some of the House of Dior staff show their craft. We’ve met a seamstresses who’s been working for Dior for over twenty years, we were in awe…….Esprit Dior is on show through November 10th 2013

Couture in The Netherlands

The Netherlands is a very small country, it’s also a Kingdom. like each of this kind of counries they have couturiers, not many but they are there. Two of the most known are Frank Govers and Frans Molenaar. Inez van Lamsweerde portrayed their clothes in an editorial for Modus Magazine 1990

Frans Molenaar – photographed by Inez van Lamsweerde for MODUS. Styling by Stephanie Gude, Hair by Martin Wentzel, Make-up by Joyce Thé (images taken from MODUS edited by Pauline Terreehorst. Published by de Balie Uitg., 1990. ISBN 9066170751, 9789066170759)

Dresses by Fong Leng

Ms Leng presenting a book about her during the Amsterdam Fashion week in 2010. photographer unkown (via http://www.rnw.nl)
In the Seventies

Fashion designer Fong Leng and Mathilde Willink Photo by Paul Huf. (via.listal)
Fong Leng in Fong Leng (via http://www.dejongehond.nl)

Carel Willink painting a portrait of his wife wearing a golden leather Fong Leng piece. in 1975, photo by Paul Huf (via beeldbank.amsterdam.nl) The painting Farewell Mathilde (Afscheid van Mathilde), by Carel Willink 1975 (via timerime)
Vintage Fong Leng

Actrice Leanne de Haan wearing Fong Leng photo by Wendelien Daan…(via wendeliendaan.tumblr.com)fong_ferry
Vintage dress by Fong Leng photo by Ferry vander Nat

Fabulous and very unique 1970s FONG LENG jumpsuit in purple/blue changeant fabric. For sale at Kabinet Store