Fashionfix S2012 RTW Womenswear: fabrics


Allover at Sonia Rykiel and Burberry Prorsum.
Inserted at Antonio Marras and Chloé.
Shiny at Prada, transparent at Sacai.
Blocking at Prada and Aquilano.Rimondi.

Allover printed and bias at Rue du Mail. Bi-coloured at Chloé.

Inspired by pliseé at Martin Grant and Versus.
Short ‘n Sassy at Felder Felder and Sass&Bide.
Skirts: Jil Sander Navy, Acne.
Dresses: Gaultier, Sportmax.
Knitwear from Sportmax. Theyskens Theory.
Statements at Manish Arora and Givenchy.
Details at a Détacher and at Mugler.

In warm colours, Alexandre Herchovitch and Prada
As ice at Sarah Wauchob and Gabriela Colangelo.
 Layered skirts at Marc Jacobs and Marni.

Showing some leg at Gabriela Colangelo and Commuun.
Abundance at Theyskens Theory and Rochas.

‘Cotton-fresh’ at Prada and Valentino

Plain and layered at Miu Miu and Junya Watanabe.

Comme des Garçonnes. Under the looking glass at Louis Vuitton.

Multicolored at Marni.Contrast layering at Preen.
*All photo’s from

Fashionfix S2012 RTW Womenswear: The usual suspects.

Iceberg and Antonio Marras.
Peter Som and Peter Pilotto.
Manish Arora and Blumarine.
ADAM and Piazza Siemione.

Anna Sui and Moschino.
Note: All of he above are Jumpsuits or 2 piece pantsuits.
All kinds of flowers are game.
Multicolored lace: Junya Watanabe and Peter Pilotto.
Bold Sixties: Marni and Rochas.
Heavy embellishment: Dolce and Gabanna and Louis Vuitton.
(Bee) Stripes
Burberry Prorsum and Fendi
Marni and Manish Arora
BB Checks: Peter Jensen and Marc Jacobs.
Transparent allover checks: Y-3 and Jill Sander.
Barbara Bui. Lightsaber-blocking at Martin Grant.
Diagonal with functional details: Helmut Lang and Donna Karan.
 Diagonal: Cacharel and Giorgio Armani.
Bold patching: Barbara Bui and Manish Arora.
Loud and clear: Donna Karan and Balenciaga.

Fashionfix S2012 RTW Womenswear: story 5

All kinds. But let’s start with the paper dolls. Their cut-out clothes with folding tabs are an inspirationfor this season. The ‘paper doll’ garments are ill fitted, contrasting, or out of proportion. Complicated? No way, just have a look.
Creating an optical illusion: 3.1 Philip Lim. Sacai incorporated a petite, knitted sweater.
The tiny top illusion: Sonia Rykiel and Balenciaga. 
Stitched-on tops: Comme des Garçonnes and Preen.
Interchangeable ‘paper doll’ clothes at Antonio Marras. Notice: The embellishment is only applied to the front, like it should be!
Marni: The dresses are embellished by hand, in raffia and Swarovski Strass at the front and back. They’re a little bit more chique than your average ‘paper doll’ dress, the workmanship of these garments is so breathtakingly refined! Is this really RTW? Yes it is: BUY (till 11/16)
Blank Canvasses: With visible fold loops at Altzaturra. Abstract meets pictorial at Hussein Chalayan.
Souvenir dolls
 Traditional patchwork at Miu Miu. ‘Ill’ fitted patchwork at Peter Jensen.
Folklore: Moschino and Antonio Marras. What do you think?
Are these dolls gifts from Germany, or from Russia…

Mixing traditions: Antonio Marras and Miu Miu.
The keffiyeh: overdyed by AF Vandervorst. Patched by Three as Four.
Bi-colour: Sequins at Marni. Embossed leather at Balmain.
Life sized Dolls
Paper cut-out dresses: Louis Vuitton is Master. His garments have a lot going on at the front and , relatively, nothing at the back! He toys around with proportions on a huge scale. It almost feels like he dressed the models in a saved-up collection of childhood b-day gifts. I guess that’s a definition of retro as well! Ingeniously shaped and meticulously proportioned at Comme des Garçons.
Barbie: Seen as a concept at Viktor and Rolf. Conducted in a rigorous manner, no mistake here about the inspirational source. From stitchings to lashes, top to toe; all magnified. Even the catwalk entrance is a sky high, singing Barbie, wearing a long skirt/ curtain. At Mulberry, Barbie was used as inspiration in a broader perspective. She is formed into a Trashy Chick (X-tina?). The only true remains of Barbie are the pastel colors, the blond hair and the naïve accesoiries as in bows and small dogs. This appearance makes the chique Mulberry Bags ‘n shoes really stand out! They just used her as a styling device! Poor Barbie!
*All photo’s from

Fashionfix S2012 RTW Womenswear: story 4

The (occult side of the) animal: Snakes and birds.
Snakes and symbols at Lanvin
Snake scales at Givenchy.
Snake at Lanvin and Peter Pilotto.
 Eagles and beaded feathers at Lanvin. Peacock feathers (bad luck) at Manish Arora.

 The oil-leak (knitwear) at Sportmax. Metallic at Paco Rabanne.

Sequined feathers: Balenciaga and Marc Jacobs.
Ruffled at Watanabe. Heavy, frilly, layering at AF Vandervorst.

 Diagonal: Lace on top of layering at Missoni. Draping by Haider Ackermann.

Tailfeathers: Yves Saint Laurent and Emanuel Ungaro.

Dries van Noten and Marc by Marc Jacobs.

Paisley in the correct color scheme at Yves Saint Laurent. To the office in Feather’s From Fendi.

Yes this is still Summer 2012, NOT your Christmas theme!

*All photo’s from

Fashionfix S2012 RTW Womenswear: Return of the Nurse

Remember the Nurses Marc Jacobs created for Louis Vuitton/S08?
Well, they’re back !
On the catwalk, at Jil Sander, including a wedding nurse!
Actually, they are Spa personnel/clients, so I’ve read. But I’m going to stick with nurses, because Mr Simons also created a Plastic surgeon.(Obviously he isn’t a male chauvinist)
In search of a proper surgeon’s uniform to state my case, I found that nurses can also be dressed in pastel.(buy)
Which guides us trough to Marni:
These nurses worked all day! They’re walking home in support stockings.
Marni. Please note the similarity in waist detailing between Marni and Sanders’ green outfit. Sophisticated, symmetrical focus on the waist is ‘hot’ this season.
Of course these shows can be placed in a time frame. But I guess that’s less important. Why you ask of me? Which show isn’t these days, I answer you.

Historical uniforms via scrubsmag, the nurses guide to good living. Rightside: “Ann Kenyon: Surgeon” by Adeline McElfresh, 1960.(via)

Jil Sander and Marni were always my favorite collections. This season, as you may have noticed, I am a not so keen on their clothes. Maybe it’s because the lack of colour at Jil Sander and no pretty, ingenious prints at Marni? Hmm, have to get back to you about that. I’m wondering if we get to see more nurses in Paris. We’ve already seen lots of white, but no true nurses as such. Probably to be continued….
*All catwalk photo’s from

Mimi Berlin’s View on Distaste

Mimi Berlin’s View on Distaste

In case you missed the Romeo Delta evening of distaste in Rotterdam the other day;

Mimi Berlin spoke her mind on the topic “Distaste”, using only images.

“avond van de wansmaak” georganiseerd door BNO/Romeo Delta/IMG Lab, Rotterdam Wat is nou wel of juist geen slechte smaak? Wie bepaalt dat? Hoe herken je wansmaak en kan je het gebruiken? Is wansmaak mooi vinden wat iedereen mooi vindt? Een avond over wansmaak belicht vanuit 10 verschillende smaakkenners. Over modieuze en muzikale wansmaak; waarom sentiment het altijd wint van goede smaak; een wetenschappelijke methode formuleert smaak of juist wansmaak en een spoedcursus voor een uiterst smaakloos interieur. Wat door sommigen met afgrijzen wordt verguisd, wordt door anderen liefdevol gekoesterd. Kom gruwelen én genieten op 20 juni onder gastredactie van wansmaakspecialist Dienand Christe. Sprekers zijn; Maxim Hartman, Isis Vaandrager, Wieneke van Gemeren, Barry de Bruin, Anniq Nahumury, Mimi Berlin, Joost Overbeek, Toon Lauwen, Hans Wessels

“evening of distaste” organized by BNO/Romeo Delta/IMG Lab, Rotterdam What is bad or good taste? Who decides that? How to recognize something distasteful, and can you use it? Is distastefulness something everyone thinks is beautiful? An evening on distastefulness, discussed by 10 different taste connoisseurs. About fashionable and musical distastefulness; Why sentiment always wins over good taste; a scientific method to formulate good taste or bad taste and a crash course in how to get an extremely tasteless Interior. What for some is reviled in horror, is lovingly nurtured by others. Come enjoy and gruel together with guest editor and distaste-specialist Dienand Christe. Speakers are: Maxim Hartman, Isis Vaandrager, Wieneke van Gemeren, Barry de Bruin, Anniq Nahumury, Mimi Berlin, Joost Overbeek, Toon Lauwen, Hans Wessels

Monday, June 20, 201, at 8:30pm – 11:30pm

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