Dolls
All kinds. But let’s start with the paper dolls. Their cut-out clothes with folding tabs are an inspirationfor this season. The ‘paper doll’ garments are ill fitted, contrasting, or out of proportion. Complicated? No way, just have a look.
Creating an optical illusion: 3.1 Philip Lim. Sacai incorporated a petite, knitted sweater.
The tiny top illusion: Sonia Rykiel and Balenciaga.
Stitched-on tops: Comme des Garçonnes and Preen.
Interchangeable ‘paper doll’ clothes at Antonio Marras. Notice: The embellishment is only applied to the front, like it should be!
Marni: The dresses are embellished by hand, in raffia and Swarovski Strass at the front and back. They’re a little bit more chique than your average ‘paper doll’ dress, the workmanship of these garments is so breathtakingly refined! Is this really RTW? Yes it is:
BUY (till 11/16)
Blank Canvasses: With visible fold loops at Altzaturra. Abstract meets pictorial at Hussein Chalayan.
Souvenir dolls
Traditional patchwork at Miu Miu. ‘Ill’ fitted patchwork at Peter Jensen.
Folklore: Moschino and Antonio Marras. What do you think?
Are these dolls gifts from Germany, or from Russia…
Mixing traditions: Antonio Marras and Miu Miu.
The keffiyeh: overdyed by AF Vandervorst. Patched by Three as Four.
Bi-colour: Sequins at Marni. Embossed leather at Balmain.
Life sized Dolls
Paper cut-out dresses: Louis Vuitton is Master. His garments have a lot going on at the front and , relatively, nothing at the back! He toys around with proportions on a huge scale. It almost feels like he dressed the models in a saved-up collection of childhood b-day gifts. I guess that’s a definition of retro as well! Ingeniously shaped and meticulously proportioned at Comme des Garçons.
Barbie: Seen as a concept at Viktor and Rolf. Conducted in a rigorous manner, no mistake here about the inspirational source. From stitchings to lashes, top to toe; all magnified. Even the catwalk entrance is a sky high, singing Barbie, wearing a long skirt/ curtain. At Mulberry, Barbie was used as inspiration in a broader perspective. She is formed into a Trashy Chick (X-tina?). The only true remains of Barbie are the pastel colors, the blond hair and the naïve accesoiries as in bows and small dogs. This appearance makes the chique Mulberry Bags ‘n shoes really stand out! They just used her as a styling device! Poor Barbie!
Abundance at Theyskens Theory and Rochas.
